This month’s review of a social enterprise eatery sees Robert Armour sticking his neck out to visit Giraffe Café in Perth

Perth’s Giraffe Café has a reputation you can’t buy. I know this because after just two minutes in the city three locals I ask for directions sing its praises. “My wife is never out of there,” says one. “Always says she’s lunching with the girls but she’s having an affair I’m sure,” he jokes. Another pitches in: “You going on a date? Buy her a slice of their Victoria sponge and she’ll be yours for life.”

Quickly it dawns on me this popular café is much more than the sensational soup, scones and sandwiches it serves. It all comes under the umbrella of Giraffe Trading CIC, a very profitable social enterprise with six local social business flourishing under the banner.

“We help hundreds of people and work to maximise social outcomes through these enterprises,” says Gareth Ruddock, the group’s chief executive. “We have two cafes, two nurseries where we grow and supply fresh produce, an activity centre for training and our outside catering arm.”

The South Street branch of Giraffe is a short amble from the city centre and doubles up as a craft and trinket shop, with an extensive training kitchen at the rear.

Its success is self-evident: few places are this busy at 11am on a Wednesday morning with all tables bar one taken in the sizeable premises. “We don’t shout about the ethical credentials,” says Gareth. “We compete on a level playing field and we are profitable. Many customers don’t know we train people with barriers to employment, neither do many know we’re a social enterprise. It gives us a lot of pride knowing we are as good or better as any other commercial café.”

You can expect flavoursome fare and thoughtful food from the Giraffe with a special mention reserved for its “very cheesy” mac and cheese. Its traybakes and artisan soup are consumed in surroundings akin to an old Victorian curiosity shop.

“There’s care, love and attention put into all our cooking,” says Gareth “and you can taste it. We don’t ever produce anything that is not top class. It is what our reputation is built on and it is why our café is always busy. We just don’t compromise.”

Gareth says “a huge debt of gratitude” has to be paid to its volunteers, who have been vital in developing the businesses. Giraffe can rely on 250 volunteer hours in any week. “There’s a unique culture of volunteering in this city to the extent that when a Perther retires, it is taken for granted they will give their time to others,” Gareth explains. “For us this means that the mentality and the quality of people we get in the social enterprises and on our board is incredible.”

There’s an endless list of success stories behind these plates of food. One trainee has become an assistant head chef despite being very reticent in the beginning and finding it hard to cope with everyday situations. “From a shy, insular employee to a confident, capable chef who now shoulders considerable responsibility, he has come on leaps and bounds and is a great example of the positive impact we make,” says Gareth.

Every September Giraffe takes part in the Great Perthshire Picnic, running a pop-up restaurant where top chefs give their time for free. It creates a stunning five-course menu using local ingredients from some of Perthshire’s finest food producers as well as from its own walled garden.

“We are blown away at the generosity of the chefs who give up their time to allow us to create this amazing event,” Gareth says proudly.

“But more than that, it shows how much we’ve achieved and how a business with a social mission can contribute to the community it serves.”